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Atlas
Mountains 4000m peaks "Integrale" -
An attempt to climb all the 4000ers in the
High Atlas in a stunning 2 week trip!
Introduction
There are 7 major
summits over 4000m in the Moroccan High Atlas:-
| 1. |
Jebel Toubkal |
4167m |
| 2. |
Timesguida
Ouanoukrim |
4089m |
| 3. |
Ras-n-Ouanoukrim |
4083m |
| 4. |
Irhil Mgoun |
4068m |
| 5. |
Afella-n-Ouanoukrim |
4043m |
| 6. |
Akioud |
4030m |
| 7. |
Biguinoussene |
4007m |
Notes: Biguinoussene
appears at different heights on various maps - sometimes under 4000m but
for the sake of completion, we are regarding it as at 4007m which it is
claimed to be on more recent maps. There are also a couple of
"tops" just over 4000m on the Mgoun ridge which we are not
counting in the above list but which are climbed en-route to the summit
of Mgoun. Similarly for a couple of tops near Toubkal.
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We
have tried to find out whether all these 4000m summits have ever
been climbed as an "integrale" (back to back /
together) in winter before but we haven't found any records to
this effect. (IF you know of some mention about this, please do
tell us!). Whilst all of these peaks have been climbed on previous
NomadicMorocco trips, no more than 4 of them have been climbed
together in the one trip.
There
are certainly no other mountain guiding companies offering this
itinerary and this is the first time we are putting it on our
calendar! So if you like the idea of trying something new,
challenging and without the certainty of 100% success - read on! |
Trip itinerary
Day 1 Meet in Marrakech, transfer to our hotel, meet others in
the group and go out for a bite to eat. Experience the sights, sounds
and smells in this ancient and historical souk city and its famous
central square - the dJemma-el-Fna. Sort out any last minute gear issues
before retiring for the night.
Day 2 After breakfast, we will transfer by private minibus to
the Ait Bougammez valley and the small village of Agouti. This journey
including a lunchstop will take around 6 hours or so. Incredible scenery
opens up as we near Mgoun and hopefully weather permitting we will get
our first glimpse of this remote peak. Stay in a comfortable gite for
the night.
Day 3 After packing up, we meet our mule team who will bring
our gear to our "base camp" for the next few days - the azib
Ikkis at 2400m. We trek up by a river and arrive at the Ikkis summer
grazing settlement after about 4 hours. At this azib, there are a number
of basic shepherd huts which we will be sleeping in. (Azib is the
Berber word for high summer farm)
Day 4 To-day we will begin our acclimatisation process by
attempting the horseshoe shaped peak behind our azib - Igoudamen at over
3500m high. We should get some fantastic views of Mgoun from here and be
able to reacquaint ourselves with our crampons and ice-axe! Return to
our base for some traditional Moroccan tajine and mint tea.
Today will be around an 8 hour day.
Day 5 An early breakfast, sort our gear and then head off up
the valley to our west to cross two high "tizis" (mountain
passes / cols) - the highest at 3400m before we descend down to the
Tarkeddit plateau where there is a newly established privately owned
mountain refuge. This is quite a long day - around 8 hours or so and we
will be carrying all our gear and food as well. However our reward is a
comfortable refuge to stay in and some great views en-route. Retire
early in preparation for tomorrow's attempt on our first 4000er - Mgoun.
Day 6 An "alpine" start for the summit. Generally the
round trip in winter to the summit of Mgoun and back to the hut is 9
hours or so and as we spend quite a lot of the day over 4000m expect to
feel tired (but hopefully elated!) on your return to the refuge for late
lunch and the re-telling of the day! (if bad weather prevented us
from summitting today then tomorrow is another possibility)
Day 7 After breakfast, retrace our steps back to Agouti passing
en-route the azib Ikkis where we can pick up any gear we left there a
couple of days ago. Return to the gite for showers and comfort! Day
8 Our minibus will come to collect us
this morning and bring us to Imlil (south of Marrakech) which is the
base village for our next part of the trip. We will have lunch en-route
in the ancient dJemma-el-Fna in Marrakech before arriving late afternoon
to the small Berber village of Imlil. Check into our hotel, have a
welcoming mint-tea and explore this traditional mountain village and
surrounding area. Return to the hotel for traditional Moroccan tajine
and sort out any last minute gear issues before retiring for the night.
Day 9 Meet our porters / mule team after breakfast that will
bring our food and communal gear up to the remote Lepiney refuge. The
trek to-day will take between 7-8 hours and our bodies will be glad to
see the tiny refuge in the late afternoon! Get settled in and keep warm!
Savour some great views as the sun sets...
Day 10 Today is an "out and back" day we as attempt
the peak behind the refuge - the lowest and 2nd of our 4000ers - Biguinoussene
at just over 4000m. Again stunning views - particularly over the
Tazaghart plateau to the west. Return back to the hut after summit
attempt.
Day 11 More peaks to-day. This time our targets are Afella and
Akioud - numbers 5 & 6 in our list above. We will access them from
the west / north west, climb to the summits and descend directly back to
the Neltner refuge at the foot of Toubkal. Depending on the level and
condition of the snow, we will either have to carry all our gear
ourselves en-route or (preferably) engage some porters to carry our
stuff directly from Lepiney to Neltner. This day may turn out to be one
of the hardest yet!..... Day 12
Basing ourselves now in Neltner refuge, today we head south up to the
head of the Mizane valley to Tizi Ouagane. From here a mixed scrambling
/ snow ridge will take us to the summit of Ras-n-Ouanoukrim. There are
only a few metres in the height difference between Ras and Timesguida
and a distance of a kilometre or less so we quickly gain the summit of
Timesguida - the 2nd highest in the range. Descend back to the Neltner
refuge.
Day 13 This is it - our last summit and the highest of them
all! Jebel Toubkal 4167m. 7 hours should see us up and down -
acclimatised now. Back down to the refuge for a celebratory lunch!
Day 14 Our last day walking as we return down the Mizane valley
to Imlil. Quick lunch there and then transfer back to our hotel in
Marrakech. Enjoy the evening and celebrate!
Day 15 Breakfast, some last minute shopping in the souks and
transfer to airport for return flights back home. Goodbyes!
If
the weather is bad on any of the days preventing summit bids, we
have a couple of days in the itinerary where we can double up - e.g. it
is possible to summit Toubkal and get back to Marrakech all in the one
(long) day if necessary. At the end of the day, it should be realised
that this is a trip with no prior history and that we will just have to
take whatever conditions we get and make the most of them.
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Experience
Required
Climbing any of these peaks at this time of the year requires the use of
axe and crampons (and sometimes snowshoes to access Mgoun). This will
not be a training trip and so we expect that anyone joining us will be
used to wearing crampons and using an axe. Most likely you will be
confident on Grade 1/2 Scottish winter routes.
In terms of fitness, you
should be fit enough to cope with 2 weeks of 8 hour days in the hills
bearing in mind that the weather whilst generally favourable can make
life more difficult at 4000m's if it turns nasty. Some days will be
shorter than this (not many) and some will be longer (again not many -
hopefully!). You will also be expected to be able to carry all your own
gear (and some shared food etc) with you in a e.g. 40-45 litre pack. The
"reward for this hardship" (!) will be superb days in the High
Atlas in the winter, views and summits to savour and ideally the
knowledge that at the end of the trip, you will have accomplished what
few others if any, have ever done before.
Accommodation
See trip itinerary above. Within the trip cost, hotel
accommodation (B&B basis) for 2 nights in Marrakech; full board
accommodation thereafter in a variety of settings - gites / basic hotels
/ mountain refuges ("huts"). We do not plan to do any camping. Sharing rooms with others in the group is the norm
other than whilst
staying in our Marrakech hotel where, if you are coming on your own,
single accommodation can be arranged for you
at a small additional cost.
Food on the
trip
Morocco is said to have one of the finest cuisines
in the world - our cooks pride themselves in their cooking, and ensure
that all the food on the trek is freshly prepared using local
ingredients and that there is plenty for everyone. A typical menu on
this trip would be:
Breakfast: Fresh bread with cheese, jam, margarine, fried eggs, omlettes,
tea, coffee, hot chocolate and hot milk.
Lunch: A light lunch consisting of fresh mixed salad, tinned fish or
meat, bread and cheese, followed by fresh local fruit.
Dinner: The evening meal is always a hot meal and is different every
night - traditional Moroccan cuisine of Tajine or couscous with meat and
vegetables or the occasional pasta meal. This is followed by fresh fruit
and the famous mint tea.!
Kit List / Clothes / Weather
etc
Normal winter mountain walking equipment including crampons and axe. We
will supply you with a suggested kit list on receipt of your booking /
reservation. You will also need a good quality
sleeping bag and warm fleece / down jacket etc.
The weather at this time of the year is
generally sunny days and cold nights. However this is the winter and
therefore it can snow! Climbers should realise that weather in high
mountains can be unpredictable and should be prepared for this. The
snow-line is generally around 2500-2700m meaning that by the time you
arrive at any of the refuges, you will be in the snow.
Environmental / Health
All our guides are qualified in remote and wilderness first aid and
always carry a fully equipped first aid kit for serious medical
emergencies. However this is not a general dispensary (!) - walkers
should bring their own supplies of plaster, blister prevention pads,
paracetmol etc. and any medication they are on.
There are no compulsory vaccinations for Morocco but, as always, you
should keep Hep A, Tetanus, Polio, Typhoid and possibly rabies up to
date. Consult your GP or a vaccine specialist for professional advice.
The most common complaint can be diarrhea which can be caused simply by
a change of diet or more likely your poor hygiene standards. Non spring
bottled water should never be drunk without first sterilising with
iodine tablets or by boiling.
Money Matters / Currency /
Visas / Language
Our price includes all accommodation as described,
all
food throughout from the time we leave Marrakech until we get back there,
all transport costs associated with the
official trip itinerary (e.g. buses, jeeps, hire of mules etc including
airport transfers) and professional guiding services for the duration of the trip. The
only additional costs for you therefore would be flights, insurance,
personal spending, 2 evening meals in Marrkech, drinks etc.
Visas for entry into Morocco are not required by nationals of Ireland,
the U.K, U.S.A, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and most E.U countries.
The currency in Morocco is the dirham (dh). There are about 10.5 dh to
the €. Impossible to get dirham outside of Morocco - therefore take
€ Euros (preferably) or US$ and exchange over there.
Language is Arabic / Berber but French is also understood / spoken
widely. Little or no English spoken / understood.
Time difference = GMT all year.
Insurance
We ask you to effect individual holiday insurance against travel delays,
loss of baggage and money, mountain rescue & medical expenses,
personal accident and any cancellation costs. You should note that there
are no official mountain rescue services in Morocco and that any
evacuation in the event of a serious medical emergency to the nearest
hospital will be by land as opposed to helicopter.
We will require documentary evidence of your insurance prior to
departure.
Trip
Ethos
A quality winter trip with ascents of all (or
failing that - most) of the 4000m peaks in the Moroccan High Atlas
within a 2 week timescale in good
company led
by NomadicMorocco / Wilderplaces guides - it’s that simple!
Travel
The most realistic
airport for this trip is Marrakech (there is also
Agadir but
if you fly into here, you have a 4 hour taxi / bus journey to Marrakech).
Scheduled flights are best had with Easyjet.Com; Atlas-Blue.Com;
Ryanair.Com; RoyalAirMaroc.Com or British Airways
(BA.Com) who between them offer a good daily service from London Gatwick, Heathrow
and Stansted and most major
cities in Europe.
For those with time on their hands, another very attractive way of
seeing the country is to get a cheap flight to Malaga in southern Spain,
get the ferry across the Straits of Gibraltar and overland it by train to Marrakech.
You
can now reserve your place on this trip and pay later!
www.nomadicmorocco.com
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